In a city as coffee-centric as Portland, it’s uncommon for a cafe to stick out with originality. Tov Coffee, parked in the Hawthorne district, does so very literally in bright red fashion.
Contained inside of a London double-decker bus, the shop specializes in well-crafted Egyptian and Turkish coffee creations. In addition to classic espresso offerings, the cafe is a rare purveyor of cezve prepared Turkish coffee and even rarer Ottoman drinks such as Sahlep (a flour-based beverage) and Karkedeh (hibiscus iced-tea).
The originality is taken even further in the menu of coffee cocktails. Unafraid of experimentation in spice, the shop sells truly bizarre concoctions such as a mocha with wine, and a chai with rose, coconut creamer, and apple cider. Tov’s unique blends of flavor were such a hit with locals, his cold brew ‘Mint Thing’ and oak milk is now canned and sold around the city in over a dozen locations.
Although such creations may scream gimmick at first glance, Tov is mindful of bean sourcing and balance in flavor. Serving esteemed Vivace Roasters from Seattle, the approach in preparation is solidly of specialty coffee tradition. The espresso is well prepared, and the Turkish coffee is even better, restrained in sweetness yet floral in its spice. In keeping with Islamic tradition, each drink is served with a small desert such as lokum, with a larger variety available for purchase.
The Egyptian owner, Joseph Nazir, moved across the west coast before settling in Portland and opening Tov years later. The keen attention to small details upholds the cafe’s name, which means ‘perfect’ or ‘good’ in Hebrew. Rather than a food truck or coffee-stand experience, the small space is optimized for lingering, and the drinks complement as elaborate creations.
Nazir’s aim was to open a community space, utilizing precise coffee preparations to give back to the city and showcase the beauty in cultural diversity. His tightly contained and endearingly eclectic Islamic atmosphere does just that, welcomed as a successful addition to the city. To fully absorb the vibrant environs, and unorthodox yet delicious creations, it’s best to get aboard the bus and sample Nazir’s creations for yourself.
Nikita Ephanov is a culture, travel & tech writer based in the United States. He lives by his morning pour-over and daydreams of visiting the country of origin. Whenever possible, he chases the world's best cups, not for the caffeine, but the community of people behind them.
