If you understand what $50 will get you and are comfortable with that then this is a great grinder.
Positive Product Points
It's pretty. It's the cheapest burr grinder that I know of.
Negative Product Points
Won't grind fine enough for espresso without modification. See below. This is the third one I've owned in about 4 years. They keep dying after about a year and I keep taking them back. Keep in mind, I had this at work to grind drip and it lasted through about 120 lbs. of beans. This thing is messy. Static is bad and the grounds hopper makes a mess when you open it no matter how careful you are. I really want a grinder with a doser.
This grinder will not grind fine enough for an espresso without a modification. Just thought I would post what I did in case there are others that can't (or won't) spend $300 on a grinder.
0) gather a Phillips head screw driver, an aluminum soda can, scissors that can cut the can. 1) take off the bean hopper by spinning it counter clockwise. 2) remove the 3 screws that hold the burr plate in place on the bottom of the hopper. 3) cut small squares of aluminum to stack between the hopper and the burr. the way I did this was to cut squares that were the width of the seat that the burr sits in. In the end, I needed 3 squares stacked on top of each other to get the correct spacing. I needed three of these stacks for a total of nine aluminum squares. I positioned them between the screws. If the screws are on a clock face at 12, 4, and 8 -- then the shims are positioned at 2, 6, and 10. 4) replace the burr and screw it back down. Notice, it should be sitting a bit higher now. 5) screw the bean hopper back in and check to see if it comes in contact with the other burr plate by looking in the port where grinds are ejected. 6) adjust the number of shims you use until you use 1 less shim than what make the burr plates touch on the finest setting. This is how I safely checked for burr plate clearance:
a) on a setting that the burr plates were definitely not touching, and with no beans in the hopper, start the grinder briefly and then turn it back off. The momentum of the burr will keep the plate spinning for a few seconds. b) While it is slowing down, adjust the grind finer and finer. Since you only have about 2 seconds before the plate stops moving, you can only go about 2 clicks at a time. Repeat until you hear the the plates just touching. Remember, your goal here is not to damage the burrs so let the machine slow down before adjusting the grind.
3 shims worked for me but I doubt that will translate to 3 shims for you. I'm sure the tolerances will be different for every machine. My goal was to calibrate it safely to produce the finest grind that this grinder possibly could. If you do this properly, you get a decent grind with no fear of the plates touching no matter what setting you use. Now I can grind for drip, espresso, press pot, etc. just like the manual said I was supposed to be able to. See! The manual was right! I guess they just left out the part about hand calibrating it. :)