So far, I seen that the PID is not connected to power and the SSR output is not connected. The sensor is wired to the PID and appears to be long slender on top of the boiler? Identify wires from PID to SSR, probably 9 and 10 at the back of the PID, and the small wires at the SSR.
1 and 2 are power to the run the PID, connected to PID, not connected to power. 3 is ground on some, often unused. 4 and 5 are not used unless you have more than PID set temperature - they are for alarm and used for steam. 6,7,8 are the sensor RTD type, and 9,10 are PID output to the SSR.
Finally, there is a tiny white wire on the PID the runs simply from #6 to #7.
That covers all the wires. I have, in the past, connected the four wires that are currently not connected (the two large orange wires from the SSR and the two thin black wire from the PID) in a configuration that followed the directions from this site. PID Documentation Obviously that didn't do it.
Could it be as simple so simple that I don't have the wire to connect the PID to power? Seems so crazy that the original owner would sell his Silvia with a non-functioning PID if this was the only problem.
I connected the male red wires from the SSR to the grey and red female ends that were originally connected to the brew thermostat. I couldn't find any information about which wire goes to which color, so I assumed it didn't matter.
I connected the black wires from PID #1 and #2 to what I assume is where they get power from, the top two female connectors on the back of the power switch. When I powered on the machine, I got no visual cue from the PID was it was functioning.
I did notice that the sensor wire is not connected to the brew thermostat, but to the steam thermostat. Maybe it's a brew/steam PID? I assume that if all things were working, the PID would still turn on, whether the sensor is connected to the brew or steam thermostat.
You put the piggyback connectors on the power switch and reconnected the original wires on the piggybacks back to the switches??? And then no power?
You can power the PID by using a plug in cord, unplugged, and connect to each piggyback and over tape with electrical tape. Use a cord and bare enough copper wire to twist around the piggybacks and tape over. You can plug it in to the wall and get AC that way. That will see if it turns on. If not, the controller is dead. Of course this is where a volt meter could help to see if you had a switched connection and got power to the controller from Silvia. If you clearly understand the instructions about plugging in try that, and if not photo what you are doing and post before you plug in. Leave the SSR disconnected and tape over those connections so that they cannot short if the PID works.
That image shows the red SSR cables disconnected, with the original brew-control cables connected. You can also see the black piggyback cables for power connected to the power switch. When the machine is powered on, I get no response from the PID.
This picture shows where I just broke one of the male connectors from the SSR. Oops. I was trying to disconnect the SSR cable from the brew controller and the cable pulled right out of the clip.
That being said, I should, in theory I think, be able to power the PID without the SSR connected to the brew control. Like you said, I assume this means that there is a problem either with the innards of the PID or with the power switch on the Silvia. And I clearly don't have the tools available to diagnose this. I wasn't quite able to follow your plug in method, but I'm not a very domesticated house and don't have things like tape and copper wire. Can you think of any other way to diagnose this problem...?
You need to check your links by going to them as I have to. I got the first to work, not these. ? dates, I can take care of extra spaces ? So, can't see your photos. Copper wire to make the wrap is under the insulation of the cord.
At this point I am not sure that you got power to the PID. If I understand correctly, you connected the PID wires on 1 and 2 to the power switch. With those wires connected did the machine turn on normally at the time the PID failed?
Other than to confirm by hooking it to direct power via ac cord, probably not necessary, the PID seems dead. I can't quite see how every thing is hooked up on the piggybacks of the black PID wires when I look at the first picture of the wires and then the PID power wires on the front, but if the machine is on and the PID wires are on the switch at the same time, PID seems dead. A volt meter would confirm that voltage is to the PID terminals making more certain that it is dead and not a wiring problem.
If you want it to work, I suggest a friend with a digital multimeter and confirm all wiring intact and voltage to the PID. Repair the broken off terminal, and then replace the PID. The Auber 1512 PID is not expensive and you have the wiring, box, and RTD sensor. You will need help to hook it up, but it is mostly there.
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