Posted Sat Feb 9, 2013, 3:16pm Subject: Re: Starbucks barista brew temp.
Great to see you up and running! You owe most of that to Fred (D4F)! Regarding your SJ...well, you pretty much chastised the local SJ expert here (calblacksmith) when he tried to help you because you didn't like what he had to say. Given what a great guy he is, a simple apology ought to get you back in favor (sent via pm he'd be guaranteed to see it) and he would likely gladly help you all he can. He's rebuilt more SJs than I've even seen in action, so he's definitely "the guy" to get advise from on CG when it comes to SJ grinders!
. Always remember the most important thing is what ends up in your cup!
Posted Sun Feb 10, 2013, 1:41pm Subject: Re: SJ new burrs
Now that I have a tiny bit of knowledge I will continue fine-tuning things to try to make it better. That includes getting it clean, so the water tastes good, playing with the temp, and now I will put in the new burrs in my SJ. Did I understand that my grinder would be hypersensitive to adjusting, that 2 or 3 clicks would go from too fine to too coarse?
Posted Sun Feb 10, 2013, 10:10pm Subject: Re: Starbucks barista brew temp.
I read "the easy guide...." and some other things, all full of things I didn't know. I got a digital thermometer and a cup and checked the brew temp. It seemed variable- on three tries I got between 168 and 185 I think. I have to experiment more to see if I can at least figure out how to get the higher temp, but I guess its lower than it should be. I think the shower screen might be causing me the biggest problem. I cleaned it but I think most water comes out of a 1/2 inch circle in the middle and probably is channeling straight through. The puck has a noticeable depression in the top center. Also I have depressurized the pf, but then saw the screen issue which I hope to fix now.
Martin, just checking: You DO know that before you pull a shot, you need to briefly open your steam valve for a couple of seconds. Doing this is mandatory if you want the machine to reach the proper brewing temperature, about 200f. This is called ridding the machine of "false pressure." When the ready/brew light goes out, bleed the wand for a few seconds. The light should go back on. When the light goes out, run water through your group for about 3 seconds. Then proceed as usual.
Well, I had the same machine, A Starbucks Barista (or maybe Athena, 15 years ago hard to remember.) The instructions CLEARLY stated that this procedure must be done to assure the machine get to proper temperature. It has no release valve, same as my former Cremina. False pressure MUST be bled. If I'm incorrect here, my apologies. I just know my machine (manufactured by Saeco) advised this.
Edit...have I missed a modification of his machine?
Posted Sun Feb 10, 2013, 10:53pm Subject: Re: Starbucks barista brew temp.
I thought that the false pressure bleed was for machines with P-stats. That would affect a pressure sensor and then the temperature controlled by pressure. I should stick with my Gaggia, but thought other SBDUs were similar. I know that you need to make sure that the boiler is full of water or you blunt the pump pressure and can cook the element.
I just checked the instructions, which don't say much about anything. It definitely had no mention of what you are referring to. My only modification is de-pressurized pf. I happened to stumble across Saeco's instructions on how to use the unmodified pf, which Starbucks didn't even mention, although that now means nothing to me. When the ready/brew light is on does that indicate weather the heating element is on, or just went off, or something else? Thanks- Martin
Sorry, I do not know for sure on the light. Some brand machines are light on for heat, and some are light off. I believe that when you turn on the machine cold, the light will be on or off then and tell you which way it is when heating, obvoiusly heating when first on.
I think that the false pressure stuff above is for pressure regulation of temperature, common in Hx machines and those with pressure-stat. Your instructions would have mentioned it if needed.
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