I am unsure as to why that board failed. visually there was no signs of water/steam/corrosion damage/board discoloration. it looked good as new. No solderjoint issues, and the LEDs passed diode testing. I am attributing the failure to randomized fallout (bathtub curve type of situation) for the chip on the board.
I am going to bring some pcb conformal coating material home and seal up the pcbs.
Oh I wanted to mention that the entire back of the pcb is covered with a double sided sticky tape.... painful to remove. And when you buy the pcb it doesnt come with any (purchased at WLL) Luckily I had a roll lying around. and I busted one of the white mounting clips when trying to remove the entire keypad assembly. I would suggest using a small flathead screwdriver to loosen up the white encasement to the housing.....
I too also changed the ribbon cable, because before one month all LEDS went out. The truth is that I opened and closed the machine very often and the ribbon had struggled. If someone change the keyboard I suggest to change the ribbon cable also, for just to be sure. It is very cheap.
BTW after all those months I have not any more problem that I had with machine start working without pushing any button.
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