Here's one more pic of the boiler - not sure if this shows the damage any better or not. The flange section that mates with the o-ring has only very minor corrosion and no real pitting to speak of. The bottom of the boiler (which I believe is the group head, or at lest it's attached to it) appears to be completely fine (maybe because it's made of chromed brass?) and the channel (groove) for the o-ring in it is still perfect.
That is actually in great shape. Lightly brush the boiler out, you do not appear to need chemicals. Fine wire wheel brush on a Dremel and wash the flaking out. Did the O ring look good, probably reusable as the machine does not look over used.
Sorry again. Same problem. I also tried word doc with pictures inserted, but again just a blank page shows up when I upload (looked at the preview before a posted that time - see, I can learn, I'm just slow). Guess I'll have to post these one at a time. It won't let me post multiple pics (or again, I'm an idiot). Thanks for the advice, please let me know if this one works.
I've posted this more than a few times.. ALL file extensions were disabled quite a while ago as the site was supposed to go through an update. .txt, .zip, .pdf, .doc files were disabled., the only files that work are jpg, .gif.
I am having the same problem. Loss of steam pressure after such and such a time. Did cleaning the boiler fix the problem?
I too have purchased a used Baby Twin at Wholelattelove, the device has been working like a champ for over 1 year. Some Additional comments:
1) I recently purchased the durgol descaler I spent over 2 hrs descaling / rinsing. Although, suprisingly (since I only use Reverse Osmosis) some scale was removed, as this was a used machine it may have come from prior ownership. I would run a bit throught the brew head (let sit 20 min) then I would run a bit through via HOT water (and again let sit for 20 min). This process was repeated switching between steam and water until the fluid was almost gone. Then I would add a tank of new water for rinising. The entire process was repeated with the other bottle of durgol.
2) The loss steam was something that just happened suddenly over the last month.
3) After descaling I allowed the device to heat up for 30 min. No change! The behavior is the same.
4) Question: if scale was the issue would it not cause a problem with HOT water? Do you know what the ideal flow rate is ... for example x oz of hot water should come out in 1 minute?
5) I made a video, here is the link: Click Here (dl.dropbox.com) why would turning the steam valve on/off repeatedly give x seconds of steam?
I appreciate any additional insight into this issue.
Qu1nn
6) Any suggestions would be great. I am not afraid to take apart the device and do my own repairs.
Hmmm, perhaps the original steam problem is not solved. EV will have a clean boiler, but not necessarily good steam. It always helps to refocus on the original problem, steam. I started looking at pictures and how to fix that, but it may not be all of the problem.
You will need to look at the insides of your machine. The Twins have a thermoblock for steam, after the boiler. That is another area for known problems.
Between tubing and thermoblock, the Twin is not high on the recommended list, but you already have it.
Pump flow rate without resistance is about 10 cc/second. Pumps should not be run long time, so run for 30 seconds and measure volume. If the steam wand flows full water flow and sputters for steam, then the thermoblock or steam stat seem the problem.
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