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Discussions > Espresso > Machines > Bezzera BZ40  
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PANOPTIKOS
Senior Member


Joined: 1 Jul 2012
Posts: 3
Location: WILLIAMSBURG, VA
Expertise: Just starting

Posted Sun Jul 22, 2012, 5:45am
Subject: Bezzera BZ40
 

I recently purchased a Bezzera BZ40 that had been out of service for about 2 years, I do not know any other history on it.  When I tried to run the machine the boiler tank would not fill.  I manually filled the boiler tank through the level probe hole on top and tank pressure once heated up shows 10 bar.  Everything seems to work until the boiler drains and the rotary pump kicks in but does not shut off.  I do not want to damage the machine so I shut it down after a minute or so.  The pressure gauge for the boiler tank remains at 0 bar.  The pump knows the boiler needs water but it is not getting there.  I suspect the auto-fill solenoid is the culprit (Sirai L177B04, type Z610A), it did show signs of corrosion in the shaft hole that runs through it possibly over time compromising the internal coil?  I did test for continuity between the top two terminals of the coil and I did get a positive indication.

The Sirai valve I need is difficult to get in the US.  Have any Bezzera BZ40 owners had luck with a compatible Parker, ODE, or Lucifer that they might direct me as to which one works and where I can purchase one at a reasonable price?

Other helpful information: brewhead works fine until boiler drains, getting steam and hot water fine until boiler drains, I have not opened up supression/one-way valve or rotary pump ports to inspect, inspected Gicar unit and no visible issues with that, fill probes were cleaned, the machine is hard plumbed and water pressure is getting to the inlet side of the auto-fill valve, all electrical connections look good.

I did not want to start blindly throwing money at the problem and was wondering if anyone out there had some insight on the issue?

Forgive me if I am not correct with any of my terminology, I am new to Espresso Machines.
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tedegreene
Senior Member
tedegreene
Joined: 4 Oct 2005
Posts: 164
Location: JACKSONVILLE

Espresso: Bezzera BZ40
Grinder: Baratza Preciso
Posted Thu Jul 26, 2012, 6:08pm
Subject: Lots of good news and some great news
 

Good news is the machine is bullet proof, easy to work on, and parts are available.  Great news is you're going to love this machine once you get it working and figure out how to get the best from it.  More great news is getting the best is real easy.  I've had my BZ 40 for about 5 years and like it so much I wouldn't consider "upgrading" if I won the Mega Millions lottery.  It has it all, plumbed in, crazy steam, great pump, big boiler for home use, and easy temp surfing with super fast recovery.  

PARTS
click here A Denver USA company. I've gotten a few things from them including a new gicar, gaskets, shower screens, a drain tub, relay, etc. All the parts fit and the tub was an exact OEM replacement.  I think they have parker valves but just put in the part number from the parts diagram  in the link below and it will pull up an equivalent part.


PARTS DIAGRAM  BZ40:click here

I'm a little confused by your description.  The pressure gauge for the boiler should be showing between 1 and 1.5 Bar when fully heated neither 0 nor 10 is correct.  10 is probably the brew pressure , some (including me) would consider that to be a little too high but if your pucks don't show signs of channeling it could work.  A zero reading for boiler pressure indicates a faulty gauge if you are getting pressurized steam and hot water, zero pressure would provide zero steam.  Also, first you say the boiler won't fill then later you say the rotary pump kicks in but won't shut off. So is the problem it won't fill or it won't quit filling?  When you drain 60 ml or so from the hot water wand (the volume of a double shot) the pump should kick on and refill the boiler.  There are two probes on the top of the boiler, the one on the left is the shut off probe and tells the gicar the boiler is full and the pump should shut off.  The one on the right is a fail safe and will cut power to the machine if there is not enough water to cover the heating element.  If the pump is kicking on but not stopping try taking the wire loose from fill probe spade connector (on the left) and touch it to the boiler shorting the circuit.  If the pump stops when the wire is touching the tank but runs when held away then the probe could be faulty.   That would be a good thing because it only costs a few dollars. It will take a few seconds to cause the cut off it's not like throwing a switch.  Good idea to open the steam wand valve while you are doing this because the pump is strong enough to cause the pressure relieve valve to pop open if the tank fills completely, it won't hurt anything but will make a big mess when the water starts spraying in the boiler compartment.  The pressure relief valve is in the cup to the right of the two level probes and is set for a little above 1.5 bar.  Even though the pump is putting out 10 bar it won't blow as long as the air in the tank is not compressed beyond the relief point.  The wire of the probe on the right will work in the opposite to the left one.  Touching the tank (or the probe touching water in the tank) will make the machine work removing it will cause heating element to turn off.

Well wife is wanting attention, this will give you something to look and try.  PM me if you want

Go look at the Bezzera owner's thread when you have it working.  Some good info there.
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rezz
Senior Member
rezz
Joined: 17 Aug 2011
Posts: 90
Location: Dallas
Expertise: I live coffee

Espresso: La Cimbali Junior, Expobar...
Grinder: Mazzer Major, Kitchenaid...
Vac Pot: Why?
Drip: Really?
Roaster: Hot Top, Gene Cafe
Posted Sat Aug 25, 2012, 5:24pm
Subject: Re: Bezzera BZ40
 

Did you ever get this fixed? I have the EXACT same issue with a laranzato machine. If I fill the boiler manually, everything is fine (ie it heats up, dispenses steam, hotwater, and operates normally if I use volumetric dosing with the pump refilling the boiler as water comes out of the group head). Once I draw some water out with the hot water wand, the pump kicks on and won't stop. The machine isn't filling up at all (I took off one of the relief valves and looked inside the boiler while this was happening). My guess would be that the auto refill solenoid is bad.. but don't know which one this would be. Hope you got it resolved, please post back if you figured it out.
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rezz
Senior Member
rezz
Joined: 17 Aug 2011
Posts: 90
Location: Dallas
Expertise: I live coffee

Espresso: La Cimbali Junior, Expobar...
Grinder: Mazzer Major, Kitchenaid...
Vac Pot: Why?
Drip: Really?
Roaster: Hot Top, Gene Cafe
Posted Sat Aug 25, 2012, 5:27pm
Subject: Re: Bezzera BZ40
 

Oh, also, my pressure gauge acts the same way, as well. Even when I fill it up manually and everything works fine, the pressure gauge sits at "0." This is a boiler pressure gauge, not a pump pressure gauge.
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PANOPTIKOS
Senior Member


Joined: 1 Jul 2012
Posts: 3
Location: WILLIAMSBURG, VA
Expertise: Just starting

Posted Sun Aug 26, 2012, 8:30am
Subject: Re: Lots of good news and some great news
 

Sorry for the delay, I did not see that there had been a reply to my original post.  The boiler does show about 1.0 bar (I missed a decimal point in my original post) when fully heated after manually filling the boiler.  I removed the boiler probes which were very clean and looked like new.  I tried touching the left probe wire to the boiler and the pump continues to run. I have replaced the auto-fill solenoid valve with the corresponding Parker valve from CafeParts.com and still get the same results.  I am lead to believe that the boiler is not filling because after draining water through the steam and hot water wands the boiler pressure reads 0 bar and remains there.  I am getting water through the group head when pressing the green brew button, also of note the small yellow light never comes on.

I would appreciate it if you could email me an Owner's Manual or a link if you have that information.  Thanks for your help.
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tedegreene
Senior Member
tedegreene
Joined: 4 Oct 2005
Posts: 164
Location: JACKSONVILLE

Espresso: Bezzera BZ40
Grinder: Baratza Preciso
Posted Fri Aug 31, 2012, 2:45pm
Subject: trouble shooting
 

I don't have a manual as mine like yours is second hand.  The orange light should be connected to the terminals of the heating element and should light up when the element is active and working correctly.  It should cycle on and off in step with the element.  If the boiler heats when manually filled but the light doesn't come on either the connection to the terminals of the element are loose, one of the wires is broken inside the insulation, or the lamp is bad.  You can check the wires with a multimeter where they connect to the lamp, you should get a 120 volt reading when the pressure stat turns the element on.  The problem with the boiler not filling could be a blocked line.  The line from the heat exchanger on mine has gotten blocked with dirt on a couple of occasions and I had to clean out the jet in the line.  I wouldn't think there would be a jet in the boiler line so it should be much harder to block but it's possible I'm sure.  I would take the line off where it is attached to the solenoid, point it into some container and engage the pump to see if water is reaching the valve in the first place.  The water should stream out with considerable force and volume if the line is clear.  If that works do the same with the line that exits the valve by removing it where it enters the boiler and you will know if the valve is opening or not.  The pump should shut off if the fill probe is grounded regardless of the status of the boiler being filled or not, so I don't know what's up there. You might try cleaning a spot on the boiler with fine sandpaper to remove any oxidation and insure good contact but otherwise I just don't know unless the wire is shorted. Check that the wire is attached to the control unit at the other end and use a continuity check with a multimeter to insure the wire is not broken.  I don't know how the boiler itself could have lost ground but a continuity check between the boiler and any of the green and yellow striped wires will tell you if it has.  To prevent shock incase of a short, one of the ground wires should be attached to a lug on the metal cover inside the left bottom of the cover and you might remove it and see if that wire will reach the probe directly to shut off the pump or jun a jumper cable if it's too short.
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alantelfer
Senior Member


Joined: 3 Sep 2012
Posts: 9
Location: uk
Expertise: Professional

Posted Thu Sep 6, 2012, 12:01pm
Subject: Re: trouble shooting
 

never seen or worked on bezzera but looking at parts looks same as kronus.
some good points made i would normally take level probe complete from boiler switch on machine to activate pump
then imerse probe into cup of water to see if pump switches off. if machine is based on same as uk machines there
maybe a small wire filter in the fitting connected to the inlet solenoid. this can easly get blocked through limescale
due to hard water. the same could have happened on the inlet to the boiler due to scale build up in boiler.
the group heads will work as the water comes in direct from mains through heat exchanger and not from boiler.
and not from auto fill. have known probs with auto fill caused by bad earth on flowmeters try swapping flowmeters over from left side to right side. i learnt that through this site and solved my prob.
hope this helps
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longivas
Senior Member


Joined: 4 Oct 2004
Posts: 10
Location: Westport
Expertise: I like coffee

Espresso: Bezzera
Grinder: Gaggia
Posted Sat Sep 29, 2012, 6:51am
Subject: Re: Bezzera BZ40
 

Got my BZ40 new 6 years ago.  You may have to change some parts. Getting parts is a nightmare. Used to get them directly from the factory in Milano but now they do not send them anymore. The outfit that has the distributership for the US is in Florida sales@supremocoffee.com is also a nightmare. They will sell the machine but will not send you any parts!
I now need a couple of parts (a new assmbly safety valve). The only one who carry parts is in Australia  info@dibartoli.com.au . Long way to go. I do not recommend to interchange parts with aother brands...unless you are a real mechanic... Change the parts that give you trouble or a wrong reading with BZ parts. May be expensive worthwhile on a long run
Michael
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tomasito
Senior Member


Joined: 9 Feb 2013
Posts: 1
Location: San Francisco, CA
Expertise: I live coffee

Posted Sat Feb 9, 2013, 1:52pm
Subject: Re: Lots of good news and some great news
 

I have a similar problem. Amber and green light out and pump runs continuously. I removed the left probe and shorted it to the boiler and the pump stops. I have a 2005 BZ40R. I'm thinking water might not be getting to the boiler?

What do I check next? The white hose going to pump, or the the copper hose entering the pump? Or what?
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