Yup, I googled silvia pump leak, and nothing about that thread came up.......i just assumed it would, other threds from here have showed up. Hopefully, it will not leak again, not thats it is hard to fix.......but just annoying.
CraigA Said:
Great!, what did you use? I'm not familiar with that area of the pump. Look above, my P.S..
Yup, I googled silvia pump leak, and nothing about that thread came up.......i just assumed it would, other threds from here have showed up. Hopefully, it will not leak again, not thats it is hard to fix.......but just annoying.
Well, it's not hard to fix the leak, but in my case the steel frame had already begun to rust. This was less than one month in. I noticed it only because water was coming through to the front of the machine (which is where the rust happened).
WLL was very good about it and sent me a new one--and paid for shipping the leaky/rusty one to them.
Well, it's not hard to fix the leak, but in my case the steel frame had already begun to rust. This was less than one month in. I noticed it only because water was coming through to the front of the machine (which is where the rust happened).
WLL was very good about it and sent me a new one--and paid for shipping the leaky/rusty one to them.
I took a look, and there was a lil rust, but it wiped away with a damp cloth, this only came out the back, right near the cord, so none other than whats in the drip pan corners. Hopefully when i backflush tomorrow it holds up. Does anyone know what that plastic "star" looking thing is in that plastic piece? You can see in the pic that it has a spring behind it, i guess maybe its to close it up after the return pressure drops.
I'm guessing, but I believe by looking at it that it acts like a gicleur (restrictor), that dampens the positive water pulse from the vibe pump & cushions the water like a check valve on the negative or non pumping part (backpressure) of the cycle.
Dan Kehn ( dan_kehn ) has posted graphs, specs, & technical info about Ulka vibe pumps here on the forums & there's info over on the Home Barista forums also. {:-)
The Word document below is only a graph of the model Ulka E4, the bitmap (.bmp) didn't display so I put it in Microsort Word.
No, but I see now what you're referring too Rich! I thought you meant the area circuled in red.. {;-D
I wouldn't seal this up so that it's permanent & cannot be fixed without destroying the plastic nose piece. I'd just use a layer, at most two of teflon tape, but not enough to stress the internal diameter of the nose piece & crack it.
P.S. I'm online right now Rich with Aim & added you as a Buddy., do ya want to IM about it?
Hi, i'm italian. Excuse me if i write on this old discussion. On my country there is no the same culture for this coffee machines... I've same problem with my miss Silvia. How do i do for disassembly the 90° curve? must i unscrew the nut that it's rappresented on red circle? thank's!
Hi, i'm italian. Excuse me if i write on this old discussion. On my country there is no the same culture for this coffee machines... I've same problem with my miss Silvia. How do i do for disassembly the 90° curve? must i unscrew the nut that it's rappresented on red circle? thank's!
Hi Ila, you do not have to unscrew the compression fitting nut from the pipe going to the boiler. The outlet "nose" fitting of the ULKA pump rotates in place. If you look at it closely you will see notches for a 12mm spanner. You can hold the right angle fitting still and unscrew it from the pump side.
The original cause of the problem is the use of liquid thread sealant. I use plumbers teflon tape as a substitute on the threads of the right angle fitting and it fixes the leak permanently.
Let's see if I understand. the brass fitting I keep it fixed, I keep the pump fixed, rotate only the piece of white plastic? this is my situation ... the piece of white plastic turn respect the pump or he must turn all the pomp (with thewhite plastic)?
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