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a "E61 compact" homebuild project
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Discussions > Espresso > Machines > a "E61 compact"...  
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toots
Senior Member


Joined: 26 Jan 2008
Posts: 63
Location: belgium
Expertise: Professional

Espresso: ...
Grinder: Faema MPN
Posted Wed Apr 30, 2008, 2:15am
Subject: Re: a "E61 compact" homebuild project
 

those sidepanels are allready painted, i sew them out of existing panels from a scratch fullautomatic machine. Maybe i can respray them, but my goal is not in first place to make a esthetic nice machine :-) maybe if everything is ready i'll give them a respray in some fancy color :-)
ciao !
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toots
Senior Member


Joined: 26 Jan 2008
Posts: 63
Location: belgium
Expertise: Professional

Espresso: ...
Grinder: Faema MPN
Posted Mon May 26, 2008, 12:02pm
Subject: Re: a "E61 compact" homebuild project
 

] here i am again, with a little update on my homebuild faema-E61 compact machine.
Last week i finished all the copper tubes and boiler modifications needed to fit the valves and sensors.
I found a nice dual-meter for boiler and pump pressure from a 70's E64-Diplomatique machine, it fits nice on the front.

Click Here (img28.picoodle.com)

Click Here (img28.picoodle.com)

Today i found out the working of the PID-controller from ERO-electronic. My thermocouple seemed to be a K-type, which had to be set in the parameters of the controller. I checked the thermocouple in boiling water, and yes! 99°C seems a acceptable value readout on the controller :-)

Click Here (img28.picoodle.com)

I had to drill an extra hole in the boiler and solder the fitting for the thermocouple. Now it sits nice on top in the steam-part of the boiler, outside reach of scale buildup.

Click Here (img28.picoodle.com)

The two electrovalves for tea (left) and steam (right) with 24VAC coils. Tea valve is two-way. Steam valve is 3-way with decharge in the lower silicon tube. I didn't add a coldwater mixer for the teacircuit... so it will be steaming hot and a little unsafe :-) The tube is attached above the reisitance, so it cannot pull the boiler dry, which would destroy the resistance.
Down in the left corner of the photo is the valve for automatic filling the level of the boiler. The tube from steam valve is also going to the meter.

Click Here (img28.picoodle.com)

the resistance i got descaled, and measured for earthleak... it was still ok. It's 1500W-220v. All the 3 bolts in the flange were in terrible shape, so i had to gently remove them and i put 3 new in. The joint between resistance and boiler is teflon.
Left under is the expansion valve. It will drip to the decharge while warming up. Water expands. If an expansion valve is not installed, the boiler explodes.

Click Here (img28.picoodle.com)

The thing on the left is the solid state relais (SSR) which is a fast on/off switching electronic device. It is steered directly from the PID-controller in front of the machine. The relais needs a bit cooling, so i put it on a aluminium coolblock. A PID controller can switch the resistance on/off a few times per second. Using a regular relais would give a constant clicknoise and quick malfunction. This kind of electronic relais using triacs is bullitproof and ensuring a hyperconstant temperature.

Click Here (img31.picoodle.com)

The microswitch wich activates the pump if the grouphead lever is pulled down.

Click Here (img26.picoodle.com)

the safety pressostate will switch when the pressure in the boiler exceeds a preset value. It sits on the bottom of the machine because the rubber membrane is not 100% heat resist and tends to leak after a few years. (this is a typical defect in automatic espresso machines from LaCimbali as most are mounted on top of the boiler, heating up the membrane!). The microswitch will deactivate the solid state relais and cause a warning light burning.

Click Here (img26.picoodle.com)

Voila, that's it for today. Next time i'll try to post some better pictures from a first coffee pour and the results.
If the machine works, i'll be able to adjust:
1) Boiler pressure (PID)
2) Grouphead temperature, with variable termosyphon brake
3) Pump pressure (+/- 6-12 bar)
4) infusion time

Now lets have a espresso
ciao Toots
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gummybun
Senior Member


Joined: 15 May 2008
Posts: 21
Location: canada
Expertise: I like coffee

Posted Mon May 26, 2008, 12:56pm
Subject: Re: a "E61 compact" homebuild project
 

I am gobsmacked. Outstanding and audacious. I would sign up for your instructional classes.

Do you plan on insulation for that tightly packed boiler? Is it feasible?

You should do a 'first turn on video' and a 'first shot' post it on youtube!

Good luck!
Simon
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gummybun
Senior Member


Joined: 15 May 2008
Posts: 21
Location: canada
Expertise: I like coffee

Posted Mon May 26, 2008, 12:59pm
Subject: Re: a "E61 compact" homebuild project
 

Oh yes...also

How do you plan on doing the pressure test after bunging in that extra hole in the boiler? and what grade of braze (?) did you use?
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toots
Senior Member


Joined: 26 Jan 2008
Posts: 63
Location: belgium
Expertise: Professional

Espresso: ...
Grinder: Faema MPN
Posted Tue May 27, 2008, 9:39am
Subject: Re: a "E61 compact" homebuild project
 

I brazed it with silver, so that should be no problem. I don't know yet if i'll insulate the boiler, as above will be used to stack a few cups to preheat. I still have a bit rockwool or ceramic wool laying around, so insulating would save me a few eu-$ :-)
Today i try to fill the tank and see if the pump and the grouphead are working ok. My collegue at Faema suggested me to make a polyester bodypanel and/or a polyester leak-plate which would look great. I'll upload some better pictures as today i bought a digital camera :-) first video will be uploaded on youtube!

Good news; Eric Svendson will post my digital tempereature probe (kit taylor 9841 + probe + E61 adaptor) today! Thanks for the hint on that. It's not cheap but worth its money for endless espresso-experiments

greetings

toots
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toots
Senior Member


Joined: 26 Jan 2008
Posts: 63
Location: belgium
Expertise: Professional

Espresso: ...
Grinder: Faema MPN
Posted Tue May 27, 2008, 12:07pm
Subject: testing the grouphead
 

]]]testing the grouphead for leaks and functioning. seems to be working allright. Pump is not turning yet as i haven't attached the electrics yet. Note the manometer is at 3 bar.

Click Here (img31.picoodle.com)

The decharge, after pulling shot, to release pressure from grouphead.
Note the little hole in the inox is to adjust pump pressure with a flat srewdriver

Click Here (img31.picoodle.com)

testing the machine in my kitchen sink :-)

Click Here (img31.picoodle.com)
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gummybun
Senior Member


Joined: 15 May 2008
Posts: 21
Location: canada
Expertise: I like coffee

Posted Tue May 27, 2008, 12:33pm
Subject: Re: testing the grouphead
 

Regarding the frame...and current

Paul questioned the mechanical connections but I think the reason production units are mainly welded is actually due to electrical safety standards. Typical mechanical fasteners do not pass stringent UL, CSA and British standards (probably Flemish as well!) regarding Grounding requirements - especially high voltage equipment in steamy & wet environs. Also Aluminium quickly oxidizes at lap joints. I suggest you put a boot on that micro-switch!

Keep posting those photos!

Simon
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toots
Senior Member


Joined: 26 Jan 2008
Posts: 63
Location: belgium
Expertise: Professional

Espresso: ...
Grinder: Faema MPN
Posted Sun Jun 1, 2008, 12:53pm
Subject: It works!
 

]]]]hi everyone
After the wiring, it's time to check if all systems work, check for leaks. I added a general switch, a switch for tea dispensing and a little switch on the left to cut off power to the heating element for safety. The machine started to fill the boiler and stopped automatic. The pump turns nice and makes no noise. I was affraid the motor would cause some vibrations but this is luckilly not the case at all. Then i switched on the heating element and the PID regulator started to switch on and off. I have to experiment a bit with the P, I and D value. P was set to 3, which was too much, causing the boiler heating up too slow. 1 is a better value i think, but it will take some afternoon playing and digging up my schoolbook regulate technics to calculate it and have a 0,1°C temp swing. It's possible so why not :-)
I then set temp. to 113°C, which is something like 0,5 bar or so, i have to search for the exact table. at 100°C steam appeared trough the air dispose valve (what is the exact english for that?) and sealing after a couple of seconds.

Click Here (img30.picoodle.com)

The light "out" is telling when the heating element is powered, upper value (green) is the measured value. Lower value (red) is the temperature setting, which can be changed by pushing the arrows up/down. When the preset value is almost reached, the out-led starts flashing more quickly. When the machine is cold, it burns continue.

Click Here (img30.picoodle.com)

ok, machine is under pressure. First sealing off a few steam leaks at the meter and the pressostate.
Now test if everything works.
Yes it does!

Tea comes out nicely when pushing the button

Click Here (img30.picoodle.com)

steam works. I still have to make a connector to hook up a foot switch to activate steam wand.

Click Here (img30.picoodle.com)

And the grouphead heats up, you can't touch it for a second :-) Pump starts turning when leaver is turned to the microswitch, and water comes out.

Yeah :-) that's it for the technical part of my homebuild espressomachine. The rest will be aestetic polyester job, and making a descent leak plate and stack plate for the cups, put in a joint-portafiltre and make coffee
And after that, it's time to continue with my homebrew "mahlkönig" dual coffee mill with 8 grinding settings.

greetings
Dirk  - Belgium
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toots
Senior Member


Joined: 26 Jan 2008
Posts: 63
Location: belgium
Expertise: Professional

Espresso: ...
Grinder: Faema MPN
Posted Fri Sep 26, 2008, 1:50pm
Subject: Re: a "E61 compact" homebuild project, first espresso
 

]]]]hello! it's been a while i did some work on my homebuild espressomachine since i moved to new appartment and all... but yesterday i got the machine on my workbench again and placed the portafiltre gasket, opened the boiler to fix a leak at the resistance, and i made a plastic drain plate. So.... i got some coffee beans, and put it in the grinder i bought earlier for 50 euro!!!real bargain
I regulated pump pressure to 10 bar, let some water flow to clean the boiler, and then... coffee!!
first one too fine, second one (almost) spot on:

Click Here (img29.picoodle.com)

ok needs a bit regulating but its espresso allright

also installed a foot pedal for the steam wand. I saw this once and it's really practical to have both hands free

Click Here (img29.picoodle.com)

the termometer kit also makes a very nice addition to the machine. It says 96°C. machine idling gives values to 110°C depending on the breaker setting in the termosyphon circuit. Water comes out boiling and with temp surfing i can change values, it works good.

Click Here (img29.picoodle.com)

PID regulator readout and setpoint, matching with 0,1°C accuracy, it's crazy, ok, but its fun to play with

Click Here (img29.picoodle.com)

i also uploaded a little videoclip on youtube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TVKb0H1U07A

i made a latte and it tasted very good, but now i need to start improving skills :-))))) milksteaming is something you have to learn by trying and trying and that's what next picture will be, a nicely poured latte rosetta :-)

greetings dirk
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toots
Senior Member


Joined: 26 Jan 2008
Posts: 63
Location: belgium
Expertise: Professional

Espresso: ...
Grinder: Faema MPN
Posted Sat Sep 27, 2008, 4:56am
Subject: naked portafilter, made from a used one
 

]]]as i seen many posts about naked portafilters, i wanna try this for myself too, and a used portafilter will do the job.
I just cut one in 2, and there we go:

Click Here (img33.picoodle.com)

ok it's not one like you order in the shop, but it will do fine:

Click Here (img33.picoodle.com)

first pour:

Click Here (img33.picoodle.com)
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