garthbreaks Senior Member Joined: 4 Oct 2007 Posts: 3 Location: toronto Expertise: I live coffee
Posted Thu Oct 4, 2007, 8:11am Subject: Commercial machine requires 220V 30amps - question re: adapters vs running wires
Hey folks, I've got a lovely little 2 group that I've recently set up in my living room. I've plumbed it in to the water line, now all that remains is sorting out the electrical. For the distance and the pain in the ass required to run BX cable from the box to the living room (not to mention the cost), I'd much prefer to use an "adapter" such as the one of the ones provided by these folks - http://www.quick220.com/220_catalog.htm From what I've read, it looks like their adapters address the phase issue, have an integrated 30 amp breaker (so I won't fry my machine or burn my house down) and are simple to install (I'll have to find two 110 outlets on separate circuits). Plus, I'm renting, so I'd prefer to invest in something I can take with me. Does anyone have any experience with these products? Is this a bad idea? Any feedback would be most welcome. Many thanks, -gb.
JGG Senior Member Joined: 31 Mar 2006 Posts: 594 Location: Kentucky, US Expertise: I like coffee
Espresso: PID Silvia; PID Alexia Grinder: Mazzer Mini E (A), SJ; Rocky... Roaster: Hottop D w/PID; Thermometric...
Posted Thu Oct 4, 2007, 9:00am Subject: Re: Commercial machine requires 220V 30amps - question re: adapters vs running w
Wouldn't this require each of the 110V circuits to carry 30A? I think it will, which is probably going to kill the plan since most circuits in your apartment will be 15A or 20A at best.
You probably already have a 220V circuit in the kitchen for your stove, or perhaps in a laundry area.
garthbreaks Senior Member Joined: 4 Oct 2007 Posts: 3 Location: toronto Expertise: I live coffee
Posted Thu Oct 4, 2007, 9:08am Subject: Re: Commercial machine requires 220V 30amps - question re: adapters vs running w
Pardon me, the machine is actually 20amps, not 30. I've got a 220v 20amp line for my stove, but I'd need to put in a new 20 amp breaker (and wiring) to accommodate the espresso machine. I'll have to check whether my existing 110 breakers are 15A or 20A I suppose, I'm guessing the amperage won't automatically double simply by pulling power from two separate circuits, correct?
Nostalgia75 Senior Member Joined: 17 Apr 2007 Posts: 174 Location: North NJ Expertise: I love coffee
Espresso: QuickMill Vetrano Grinder: Macap M4
Posted Thu Oct 4, 2007, 10:27am Subject: Re: Commercial machine requires 220V 30amps - question re: adapters vs running w
There's really nothing wrong with that, as a 220v line just uses 2, 110v lines inside the breaker box. One thing to be careful of is other things on those 110v lines. If your fridge and microwave are on the same circuit you'll have problems.
As long as they're rated for 20A, shouldn't be an issue. Kitchen circuits (at least modern ones) should all be 20A, but many will have GFCI devices in line, which will definitely pop if you use this device.
Yes, it will. If the machine requires 4400W (my estimate based on 20A draw on 220V circuit), then each 110V circuit will need to supply 2200W. And then there are the few extra watts drawn by the converter. So you would be slightly over 20A per circuit.
I don't understand why you would need another breaker if you use your stove circuit. Hopefully someone will chime in if I am wrong, but I think you should be able to just add another outlet on this same circuit.
Obviously, you would not want to run the stove and espresso machine at the same time ;-)
garthbreaks Senior Member Joined: 4 Oct 2007 Posts: 3 Location: toronto Expertise: I live coffee
Posted Thu Oct 4, 2007, 12:53pm Subject: Re: Commercial machine requires 220V 30amps - question re: adapters vs running w
Jim, Thanks for the follow up, it's much appreciated. The hassle with my stove circuit is that's it's a 30A breaker, so I'm afraid my machine would cook before tripping the breaker. If there was a work-around to that issue I'd certainly consider it, as that would likely be cheaper than buying the quick220 system. Running a new cable from the box though would cost a fortune, as I'd have to run it quite a distance, plus I fear it exceeds my handyman abilities to keep it within the wall/ceiling...
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