brianl Senior Member Joined: 1 Dec 2012 Posts: 152 Location: Chicago IL Expertise: I love coffee
Espresso: Gaggia Classic (w/PID) Grinder: Baratza Vario Drip: chemex
Posted Sat Feb 23, 2013, 10:31pm Subject: Re: Gaggia SBDU Preheat PID Temperature Recovery and Stability, Steam
The piggyback I have looks like I could do that crimp too-- the crimp part looks the same as the ring one used on the website Unless you can think of another reason it wouldn't.
I have a couple of the iPhone chargers around but I don't think my girlfriend would like me chopping them up ha
So far I have all solderless terminals. I think the diodes are all I'll have to solder. I wonder if the other ends of diodes can be crimped. I'll update after some googling.
D4F Senior Member Joined: 15 Mar 2012 Posts: 1,194 Location: USA Expertise: I like coffee
Espresso: Gaggia Classic PID Grinder: Preciso
Posted Sun Feb 24, 2013, 5:06pm Subject: Re: Gaggia SBDU Preheat PID Temperature Recovery and Stability, Steam
It works, as it should. The temperature at the charger with a thermocouple sitting on it for about 1 hr of warming 86F. Just a warm summer house. The charger is on the floor of the machine over the water tank, under ther heat. I had the broken cord frm the photo prior. An OEM IPhone charger supplies power and a generic will be tried when it arrives. I wlll go back to my old cell phone headset charger after testing. I used existing wires to the PID controller and SSR, so spade connectors to match.
Cord is generic USB IPhone cord, red positive 5 volts and black ground, with 26 awg and spades grafted. Green and wires cut off at the USB cord end.
D4F Senior Member Joined: 15 Mar 2012 Posts: 1,194 Location: USA Expertise: I like coffee
Espresso: Gaggia Classic PID Grinder: Preciso
Posted Sun Feb 24, 2013, 5:14pm Subject: Re: Gaggia SBDU Preheat PID Temperature Recovery and Stability, Steam
brianl Said:
So far I have all solderless terminals. I think the diodes are all I'll have to solder. I wonder if the other ends of diodes can be crimped. I'll update after some googling.
Diode to wire solders very easily, solder and shrink both ends is probably easiest unless there is a handy crimp. If you get the iron and shrink out, do both ends.
brianl Senior Member Joined: 1 Dec 2012 Posts: 152 Location: Chicago IL Expertise: I love coffee
Espresso: Gaggia Classic (w/PID) Grinder: Baratza Vario Drip: chemex
Posted Sun Feb 24, 2013, 6:02pm Subject: Re: Gaggia SBDU Preheat PID Temperature Recovery and Stability, Steam
So I need the following from AUBER? I only ask because this PID controller says that it can be one PID and one alarm or two alarms. Don't we want one PID and two alarms?
D4F Senior Member Joined: 15 Mar 2012 Posts: 1,194 Location: USA Expertise: I like coffee
Espresso: Gaggia Classic PID Grinder: Preciso
Posted Sun Feb 24, 2013, 8:53pm Subject: Re: Gaggia SBDU Preheat PID Temperature Recovery and Stability, Steam
Yes, those parts! Now you can see why I do not like to try to tell someone whether a PID controller on Ebay will work. The wording can be confusing. The features noted; PID control output as either relay contact or SSR and two contact relays can be as one PID and one alarm output, dual alarm outputs, or dual on/off control. I could read 2 or 3 controls in there.
Look at the instruction manual. Actually it is good to start reading the manual, available for that one on the Auber site. Specifically on page 2 bottom R, Note 2, "outy" 2 is J1 and J2 as alarms and SSR PID control output. Then look at figure 10 with SSR output and 2 alarms. Also, I am actually using it, but you are probably just trying to confirm that :)
The side with the silver band is the cathode, right? This is the side that will be soldered to the connector that will attach to the SSR? Because the flow of current is from the anode to the cathode?
D4F Senior Member Joined: 15 Mar 2012 Posts: 1,194 Location: USA Expertise: I like coffee
Espresso: Gaggia Classic PID Grinder: Preciso
Posted Mon Feb 25, 2013, 8:52pm Subject: Re: PID Controller supplies and How To Install PID on Gaggia
Back to the install. Looking at the install from the incoming plug, the back inside of the machine, machine is new configuration late 2011. If you have different year models then the colors of wires and order of the plugs on switches and rear incoming AC may be different.
This is also mentioned in Auber install guides, and well photographed.
At the rear incoming supply, the power cable will be tapped by piggyback. The tap is for power to PID controller and for power to AC to DC power supply(s), 3 leads as done. The piggyback spade will provide a male leg to reattach the machine main lead, and a tap off. To avoid a stack of piggybacks, connect the small wire leads to one leg of the piggyback, solder or crimp all into one.
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