Here is a picture of what I think is the anti-depression fitting. Is that in fact what it is because it looks much different than the one on cafe-parts and espresso-parts.
Can i just install one of the ones from the above sites such as this. As it appears to have more threads it seems as though it would utilize the un-destroyed threads, and not leak. Will it actually work this way?
Is there a better way to fix this?...I'm really hoping i will not need to disconnect the entire boiler and bring this to a machine shop to be re-tapped.
So I was able to repair the threads a little bit, using a Tap/Die set from the local hardware store. This did not make it look like new, but it repaired the damaged part of the threads enough that I could screw in a fitting.
I bought a brass fitting with male on both sides (all the hardware store had), so that it was the same metal and had more threads to reach the undamaged threading.
I than connected a second brass fitting with female on both sides, and screwed the undamaged vacuum breaker on top of that.
It looks funny, but I have a lot of room on top of the boiler, so it made very little difference.
Sorry no picture, next chance I get I will edit this post with a picture of what it looks like installed.
There is still a very minor hissing coming from one of the HX "end caps" (atleast thats where i think its coming from).
However for the time being it is minor enough that I will ignore it for the time being, likely until I insulate the boiler.
The remaining problem that I am hopeful will go away with time, is that the steam and hot water smell/taste funny. It seems to taste like rubber to me, so I am assuming it is the new rubber gaskets I put in the valves, and with use this taste/smell will go away. I have also been trying to flush the boiler with fresh water, but it takes a long time to flush this large of a boiler.
possibilities for future improvement: -insulate the boiler -add an arduino/TC4 shield to allow for pressure/temperate monitoring measure electrical use -I am doing research on the cost of this, and may be the next post I make in several months. -fix/replace the working although grungy looking pressure gauge -have the stainless steel shell professionally refinished
However, for now this is the last post I plan to make for awhile, thanks for anyone that has been following my restoration. If you are seeking advice for your own restoration than feel free to contact me.
With the flow meter, it is not truly brass to brass, but instead aluminum or stainless steel? to brass threading. Both of these locations gave me lots of trouble as there were no o-rings or any type of sealing, until I added Teflon tape.
The HX may not have needed Teflon if brand new "round copper washers" were used. I am guessing they flatten to create a better seal, I ordered a new set of them when i ordered a new level sight glass to see if that would avoid the large amount of Teflon tape required for a tight seal, at the right angle.
First off, I am glad to see you appear to be keeping the beast. I had no intention of disassembling my machine until last week when I finally got really sick of the hissing from a small hole around a fitting and had it fixed. I ended up soaking the boiler and lines and getting everything in good shape. Judging by the results (the shots that I have pulled since fixing it) I would say that it made a difference. The injectors in the bottom of the HX (the ones with the Teflon tape) were completely clogged by silt and scale along the bottom and in the large pipe.
I was surprised by the amount of Teflon tape around those fittings when I disassembled it and vowed to not use any upon reassembly. Two of the round copper washers were new (uncrushed by the previous installation). When I tightened the fitting down I found that they crushed at the wrong angle and I was stuck using the tape on all 4 fittings to have them at the proper angle to the boiler in order to connect the lines. I did not really apply any to the threads, just built up the space at the top under the washers. Please do let me know if your new washers are able to fix the problem as I will order new ones as well.
I enjoyed following your thread. I am still waiting on a review of the shots that you are pulling using the machine. Was it worth the time, expense and effort of restoring a massive old beast, or would you buy something different if you had it to do over?
I own wega epu 2 . It is not plumbed in, so the pump of the machine pump water from a container. Lately it seems that somehow , if I don't use the machine for a couple of minutes, the water drains back to the water container. I then need to use an external pump tp pump back water in the system.
This is my first machine, and so my barista skill are not up to the standards of the machine. The grinder I am using (hario skerton) will get the job done, but is also not up to the standards of the machine. and finally, I dont actually have any completely clear shot glasses to show of what crema I get.
My results have not been bad, but more what i would consider standard for a beginning barista. either way it is nothing worth showing off. (in my personal opinion)
In addition I am leaving for the summer, and not able to bring the Wega (I call her Tiny) with me, so my girlfriend's father is babysitting it over the summer (he is as crazy about coffee as me, and making the girlfriend's father happy, is never a bad thing)
I do however have the best attempt at latte art I could muster. (I usually drink lattes, for now)
As far as the washers go:
They did fix the leaking on the bottom (if i remembered correctly) I think i had teflon on that connection, but going to the flow meter (I could be mistaken). They did not fix the leaking on the top of the HX. This was a result of angle needed, not fully compressing washer, as with you, I used teflon more as a home made washer, than to seal the threads.
As far as the pump goes:
My understanding is that most espresso rotary pumps need positive pressure. Meaning that they "need" to be plumbed in. However, depending on the pump this is not always true, the problem is that many pumps need this positive pressure to prime the pump correctly.
Priming a pump involves (as far as I understand it): getting an unbroken water supply from, in your case a bucket, to the pump. So replacing the Air In your line with water.
Once you prime it I do not believe there is any need for positive pressure.
Over time, since the water is not under pressure, it will fall back into the bucket, and need to be re-primed.
A possible solution - lift the bucket above your pump, In some cases on the form this was enough pressure to achieve the desired results.
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