After seeing the review of the Scace Click Here (www.home-barista.com) I'm going to unscrew the spouts on my spare p/filter, drill a hole in a blind filter and insert a 1mm s/steel K type thermocouple. I'll punch another small hole, so that the temperature can be read at say 9.5 bar.
The local store sells Araldite Precision epoxy, but this specs out at 150F/65C. The 2014-1 is available wholesale, but requires a large minimum order. I should have asked this question before ordering, but has anyone used JB Weld Marine? http://jbweld.net/products/marine.php TIA
If you have another hole, the jb-weld will probably be fine. I tried to do a similar thing, but with copper tubing coming out to a pressure gauge. The jb-weld will not bond to the stainless disk.
Thanks John, I believe the 'marine' has a faster curing time.
stevier Said:
If you have another hole, the jb-weld will probably be fine. I tried to do a similar thing, but with copper tubing coming out to a pressure gauge. The jb-weld will not bond to the stainless disk.
Just got some good news and a quick response from JBW Customer Services. I got an email confirming that it does bond to stainless steel. I'll play safe and roughen the surfaces up a little, with some abrasive.
Just got some good news and a quick response from JBW Customer Services. I got an email confirming that it does bond to stainless steel. I'll play safe and roughen the surfaces up a little, with some abrasive. Bertie
Just got some good news and a quick response from JBW Customer Services. I got an email confirming that it does bond to stainless steel. I'll play safe and roughen the surfaces up a little, with some abrasive.
Start with a very small hole for the water discharge. Easy to enlarge, impossible to make it smaller. The hole size that works for me (60ml in 25 seconds) is barely visible, made using a hammer, a block of wood, and the sharp tip of a hardened screw (drywall screw) as a makeshift punch. Any size drill bit, IMO, will be much too large.
There's lots of s/steel fittings on boats, so let's hope the marine version, lives up to it's name.
JGG Said:
Start with a very small hole for the water discharge. Easy to enlarge, impossible to make it smaller. The hole size that works for me (60ml in 25 seconds) is barely visible, made using a hammer, a block of wood, and the sharp tip of a hardened screw (drywall screw) as a makeshift punch. Any size drill bit, IMO, will be much too large.
Did that over the w/end using a fine panel pin as a punch and could barely see daylight through the hole. Managed one shot at 10bar indicated - before the Araldite degraded
Ok here's a quick update : after 36 hours and 3 tests, the bond on the underside of the blind filter - failed. I believe there are a couple of reasons. Firstly, the 4mm holes in the washers, I think are too large. I got a couple of mild steel blanks and drilled a 1mm hole in each. 1mm being the thickness of the s/steel t/couple.
Secondly I extended the cure-time to 4 days. After about 48 hours, the surface of the epoxy, goes from a gloss sheen, to a dull matt finish.
30 tests on and the JBWeld (marine) is still holding. I may start another thread this Summer after I've done more heat tests with different SO's and roast levels, but here are a couple of tasters :-
In a pan of boiling water, I placed a crimped copper tube, with the exposed junction t/couple inserted (S1 output) Place s/steel t/c into water (S2 output) and adjust to boiling point. Remove from heat source and allow to cool. S1 shows 195.8F/91C and S2 shows 194F/90C. This is error and not lag, but for my taste buds, this difference is acceptable. For sharper response and pinpoint accuracy, go for the Scace with it's uprated t/c.
Before commencing temp tests, backflush the group, as the smallest particle of coffee dust, will block the minute hole in the b/filter. This is not a problem with the Scace, as I believe it has it's own dedicated, adjustable water outlet.
Midweek I preheat my Zaffiro for 45mins, then brew and switch off. Weekends, when I get visitors, the machine stays on all day. Needless to say, the group is getting a lot hotter at weekends, than midweek. I guess this is caused by the regular 5 minute overshoot blasts, from the heating cycle. I guess, if my machine were PID'd, I wouldn't get this extra group heat, as there's no overshoot with a PID. Hmmm lots of food for thought in another thread later - or maybe revive an old archive thread from the many that have dealt with heat.
Symbols: = New Posts since your last visit = No New Posts since last visit = Newest post
Forum Rules: No profanity, illegal acts or personal attacks will be tolerated in these discussion boards. No commercial posting of any nature will be tolerated; only private sales by private individuals, in the "Buy and Sell" forum. No cross posting allowed - do not post your topic to more than one forum, nor repost a topic to the same forum. Who Can Read The Forum? Anyone can read posts in these discussion boards. Who Can Post New Topics? Any registered CoffeeGeek member can post new topics. Who Can Post Replies? Any registered CoffeeGeek member can post replies. Can Photos be posted? Anyone can post photos in their new topics or replies. Who can change or delete posts? Any CoffeeGeek member can edit their own posts. Only moderators can delete posts. Probationary Period: If you are a new signup for CoffeeGeek, you cannot promote, endorse, criticise or otherwise post an unsolicited endorsement for any company, product or service in your first five postings.
![BertieDoe: coffee temp 002RZD2.jpg](javascript:ImagePopup("/images/38600/coffeetemp002RZD2.jpg", 400, 300, "BertieDoe: coffee temp 002RZD2.jpg");)
= No New Posts since last visit 