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Behmor Roaster needs a good cleaning.....or more.
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pmaru77
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Joined: 21 Nov 2008
Posts: 60
Location: San Diego
Expertise: I love coffee

Grinder: Maestro Plus
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Drip: KRUPS 4 cup (Melitta #2)
Roaster: Behmor Roaster
Posted Fri Jun 21, 2013, 9:08am
Subject: Behmor Roaster needs a good cleaning.....or more.
 

I've finally put the hammer down and decided it's time to do maintenence on my Behmor Roaster.  I just checked the date I purchased and it is 4 years old next month.  And yes, I have not cleaned it ever.  I will live in shame for a few minutes. I read about using simple green, etc. but what really causes the machine to not roast properly?  It used to tale 12 minutes to roast a 1/2 lb, now it takes 20 minutes, which is the max time allowed on P1, and I am not getting full first crack sometimes.  I would think the lamps, and the cage would be the most important parts to be clean, as they are directly involved with the heating.  If the cage is dirty, it may absorb more energy, and surely if the lamps are dirty, they will not be as strong emitting heat.

Somehow I think I need to strip down the machine and do a major overhaul.  Would there be parts that are too far gone?
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GVDub
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Location: Los Angeles, CA
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Posted Fri Jun 21, 2013, 1:46pm
Subject: Re: Behmor Roaster needs a good cleaning.....or more.
 

Feel bad for more than a few minutes. You're cheating yourself out of great coffee by not doing proper maintenance.

It's vital to keep the whole interior clean, as the darkening from burnt on coffee oils affects heat transfer and (perhaps most importantly) keeps the thermal sensor on the right rear side of the roasting chamber from doing it's proper job. You do have to clean the whole thing, and clean it with a dry burn and Simple Green every 5 roasts or so. No big deal if you do it regularly—just a couple of minutes to spray the Simple Green and scrub with a non-abrasive cloth. I then do a quick wipe with a damp cloth to remove as much of the Simple Green residue as I can and do the dry burn.

In your case, with four years of build-up, soak with Simple Green then take a soft or medium bristle toothbrush and remove as much of the burnt on tar as you can. It make take a few rounds of that before it's clean.
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Prof
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Prof
Joined: 10 Sep 2004
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Location: Seattle
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Drip: Aeropress
Roaster: Behmor 1600+
Posted Sat Jun 22, 2013, 10:42am
Subject: Re: Behmor Roaster needs a good cleaning.....or more.
 

Wow, you should be impressed that the Behmor roasts at all after 4 years of non-maintenance!

Also remove the right side and blow (not too much pressure) out the chaff and stuff that has found its way in there.  Remove the stainless strip on top and clean that area.  Blow through the fan to get it cleared off.  

Remove the element protector and get behind the elements and clean off the (what used to be a) mirror.  

Please report back on your success and subsequent roasts.

 
LMWDP # 010
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pmaru77
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Joined: 21 Nov 2008
Posts: 60
Location: San Diego
Expertise: I love coffee

Grinder: Maestro Plus
Vac Pot: Yama
Drip: KRUPS 4 cup (Melitta #2)
Roaster: Behmor Roaster
Posted Sat Jun 22, 2013, 4:04pm
Subject: Cleaning update............
 

Simple Green and a green pad is working well.  I have not cleaned the mirror and do  not plan on an abrasive for that.  But how do you get the safety grill off to clean the lamps and mirror?  Also I noticed some black goop/tar that got into the pwa directly below the fan (right side of machine).....and its not cleanable without a whole bunch of disassembly.  I'd do that but some of the connectors are locked on with a blob of clear goop.
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dorkroast
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dorkroast
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Roaster: Behmor, Popcorn Pumper
Posted Sun Jun 23, 2013, 11:32am
Subject: Re: Cleaning update............
 

I wish you'd posted some before and afters....im just curious. :)
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pmaru77
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Joined: 21 Nov 2008
Posts: 60
Location: San Diego
Expertise: I love coffee

Grinder: Maestro Plus
Vac Pot: Yama
Drip: KRUPS 4 cup (Melitta #2)
Roaster: Behmor Roaster
Posted Sun Jun 23, 2013, 3:07pm
Subject: Re: Behmor Roaster needs a good cleaning.....or more.
 

UPDATE!

After cleaning up the insides of the machine, I decided to run a fresh roast.....though I already have one.

P! with max minutes added put it at 20.5 minutes.  Do get any panties in a bunch now.....as I sat and waited for popping time to happen.  I did not wander off and forget to watch.....bad idea.

First crack happended with about 8 minutes left, and continued a little longer than originally (4 yrs ago).  It took about 3 minutes to finish the first crack, and then the second crack had snuck in at about 5.5 minutes.....and I shut her down.

So, looks like the cleaning helps a lot, as I saved 5 minutes on the roast, and the beans are just slightly darker than the batch I did just before cleaning.

Most of the tar (dk brn) came off, but the closer to the heating element, the harder it was to remove. So there is some dark sht still in some spots.

The mirror looked clean except on the very ends into only less than an inch, so I was pleased with that.  I could not get in there to scrub and did not want to.  I sprayed some Simple G in there let it sit for a few. and then flushed it out with a water spray, while the machined was tilted so as the water would run out fo the unit opposite the electronics.

Cleaning took about 2 hours on and off.  My guess is that maybe the bulb life is somewhat the effect of not being operating like NEW and possibly cleaning better would help even more.  I did not take the protective grill off to be able to clean a little closer.  I don't know what it takes to get it out.

The bean cage had very dark fins inside and I sprayed some cleaner on it to see if it woud come off, no dice, that stuff is baked on.  Makes sense as it gets wacked by the lamps directly.  Maybe a new cage would make a difference.

Mind you, I'm happy with the results so far and I will test the coffees in a few days to see if I like one over the other.

Pics?  I'll have to go to my pic site if I can remember where I used to post them....and let y'all know.

The proof is in the pudding, cleaning does make a difference,  but which parts that got cleaned that make the biggest difference? Don't know.

I always assumed that the lamps heat the beans radiantly and the thermalcouple makes sure the oven does not get too hot.  So that is why I thought cleaning was not that crucial.
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pmaru77
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Joined: 21 Nov 2008
Posts: 60
Location: San Diego
Expertise: I love coffee

Grinder: Maestro Plus
Vac Pot: Yama
Drip: KRUPS 4 cup (Melitta #2)
Roaster: Behmor Roaster
Posted Sun Jun 23, 2013, 3:17pm
Subject: Re: Behmor Roaster needs a good cleaning.....or more.
 

]]When it says CLICK HERE, make sure you click on the words CLICK HERE, otherwise you will go to PhotoBuckets website with all the adds.  First time back to the Bucket. New site, with tons of adds.  Going to have to fine a new site.



http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f322/pmaru77/e-goop.jpg


http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f322/pmaru77/oven.jpg


http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f322/pmaru77/door.jpg

After cleaning:
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f322/pmaru77/machine-c.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f322/pmaru77/oven-l.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f322/pmaru77/oven-r.jpghttp://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f322/pmaru77/oven-c.jpg







http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f322/pmaru77/exhaust.jpg

Click Here (i50.photobucket.com)

Click Here (i50.photobucket.com)
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Prof
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Prof
Joined: 10 Sep 2004
Posts: 712
Location: Seattle
Expertise: Pro Roaster

Espresso: PV Lusso
Grinder: Pharos 696
Drip: Aeropress
Roaster: Behmor 1600+
Posted Sun Jun 23, 2013, 7:33pm
Subject: Re: Cleaning update............
 

pmaru77 Said:

Simple Green and a green pad is working well.  I have not cleaned the mirror and do  not plan on an abrasive for that.  But how do you get the safety grill off to clean the lamps and mirror?  Also I noticed some black goop/tar that got into the pwa directly below the fan (right side of machine).....and its not cleanable without a whole bunch of disassembly.  I'd do that but some of the connectors are locked on with a blob of clear goop.

Posted June 22, 2013 link

The safety grill pulls out on one side as you push the other side out.  

The filthy area in the upper right of the picture needs to be clean since the thermocouple is located there (or behind the metal).  

Edit:  It looks like you started cleaning that area, so good on ya.

Prof: Dirty Behmor 1600.jpg
(Click for larger image)

 
LMWDP # 010
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pmaru77
Senior Member


Joined: 21 Nov 2008
Posts: 60
Location: San Diego
Expertise: I love coffee

Grinder: Maestro Plus
Vac Pot: Yama
Drip: KRUPS 4 cup (Melitta #2)
Roaster: Behmor Roaster
Posted Mon Jun 24, 2013, 8:54am
Subject: Re: Cleaning update............
 

Prof Said:

The safety grill pulls out on one side as you push the other side out.  

The filthy area in the upper right of the picture needs to be clean since the thermocouple is located there (or behind the metal).  

Edit:  It looks like you started cleaning that area, so good on ya.

Posted June 23, 2013 link


Exactly where is the TC?  Can it be identified by any hardware in that area?  ANd which side does the grill pop out of when pushing the other side, or I guess it doen not matter.  Thnx.

Do the lamps degrade much?  Look like not to.
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CraigA
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CraigA
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Posted Mon Jun 24, 2013, 10:16am
Subject: Re: Cleaning update............
 

pmaru77 Said:

Exactly where is the TC?  Can it be identified by any hardware in that area?

Posted June 24, 2013 link

The thermocoupler, but it's located right behind those two #2 Phillips screws (where the right hand side of the quartz elements are), underneath a bracket on the other inside of those screws.

ANd which side does the grill pop out of when pushing the other side, or I guess it doen not matter.  Thnx.

Yes it matters. The left hand side of the grill has two right hand hook bends in them, so the bracket exits/comes out from the right hand side once sliding the

Do the lamps degrade much?  Look like not to.

You should be pretty careful & gentle with the tubes as the quartz tube can become quite fragile over a period of time. You should try & keep as much Simple Green or whatever solution you're using off of the tubes, & dry off (or air dry) as much of it as possible.
The reaon being as I've seen on some units I've repaired, & replaced the quartz heating elements., the owner would just turn the unit on to "dry off" the tubes but that boils, sizzles & bakes the cleaning solution right onto/into the quartz tubes.
The tubes I replaced were as brittle as egg shells (one crumbled like that) & anything more than a gentle nudge did/can/will break them.

 
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